Go Back in Time at Tokyo’s Retro Neighbourhood: Shibamata

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Tokyo is known for being a futuristic and bustling metropolis. Although places like Shinjuku and Shibuya have much to offer and are filled with the cool new technologies like 3D billboards and pop culture places like Shibuya 109, it is sometimes nice to escape this and see a different side to Tokyo.

When wanting to experience traditional culture in Tokyo, most tourists flock to Asakusa as there is an ancient temple there as well as traditional street stalls. Yet, most people miss out on some of the smaller neighbourhoods in Tokyo which offer the same type of atmosphere and culture.

A Nostalgic Street Filled With Culture

Shibamata, located in the north east of Tokyo is one of these smaller neighbourhoods which is not as well known to tourists. It is famous for its retro and Showa feel as well as being the home-town of Tora-san, the main character in the 1960s film series ‘Otoko wa tsurai yo’ (It’s tough being a man).

As soon as you exit the station you are greeted by two bronze statues, one of Tora-san and the other of his sister in the series, Sakura. You will see many people snapping photos of these statues as they are one of the main tourist attractions in the area. There are even a number of small shops where you can buy Tora-san themed merchandise, at one near to the station you can even buy a keyring of Hello Kitty dressed as Tora-san.

 

Continue walking straight from the statues and you will eventually get to the main shopping street. Coming here makes you feel as though you have stepped back in time as all the shops which line the street look as though they are from the Edo period. The vibe of this street feels very similar to that of Kawagoe. It is here where you will be able to try different traditional street food and buy unique souvenirs. 

Continue walking straight from the statues and you will eventually get to the main shopping street. Coming here makes you feel as though you have stepped back in time as all the shops which line the street look as though they are from the Edo period. The vibe of this street feels very similar to that of Kawagoe. It is here where you will be able to try traditional snacks and buy unique souvenirs.

Continue walking straight from the statues and you will eventually get to the main shopping street. Coming here makes you feel as though you have stepped back in time as all the shops which line the street look as though they are from the Edo period. The vibe of this street feels very similar to that of Kawagoe. It is here where you will be able to try traditional snacks and buy unique souvenirs.

There are several restaurants as well including a soba place and tempura place. If you only want a quick bite to eat, you could try some of the famous street food instead which includes tamagoyaki, mochi and senbei. We recommend stopping by Kameya Honpo, a dango shop halfway down the street. Here you can get both sweet and savoury dangos, with one costing ¥180. Each is freshly made on the spot and you can even purchase a whole box of them to take home.

Surprisingly, although the shops look old on the outside, a few of them do accept card and payment apps like Paypay. Though it is best to bring cash as you might need it for some of the other attractions further on.

Buy Retro Goods at Shibamata Haikara Yokocho

One of the places you must visit during your trip is this wonderful little wooden retro sweet shop called Shibamata Haikara Yokocho. This shop stands out from the rest and is a perfect photo subject, given that the store front has an unique robot vending machine and other vintage knick-knacks decorated on the roof.

Once inside you will see sweets galore from chocolates, biscuits and candies. Each costs no more than a few hundred yen, meaning that it is possible to try a number of sweets from different eras. These sweets would also make great souvenirs for your friends and family back home given that some of these are not easy to find in other countries!

Notably, you can buy other retro themed goods here including packs of “Mars Curry”, a curry which was released and popular in the 1960s in addition to photographs of famous Showa era celebrities. There are also other novelty goods sold here with characters on including Peko-chan, Hello Kitty, Doraemon and more.

Another cool thing about this little sweet shop is that it has a few vintage games which you can play. From pinball machines to a mini shooting game where you can win sweets, there is something suitable for both children and adults to play.

See The Breathtaking Sculptures at Shibamata Taishakuten

One of the area’s main highlights is Shibamata Taishakuten, a Buddhist temple situated at the end of the main street. Founded in 1629 this temple is beautifully covered in wooden carvings and is known for being effective for those wanting to pray for good health. The main temple is covered by a 500 year old pine tree which is said to resemble a dragon.

You can walk the main grounds for free and pray at the main temple in addition to getting an Omamori (lucky charm) and Omikuji (fortune-telling). To see the sculpture gallery and the beautiful Japanese garden, you will need to pay ¥400. The Suikei-en Garden is a world away from the bustling main street, in some ways it doesn’t even feel as though you are in Tokyo.

Dine at the Retro Haven Which is Cafe Sepia (セピア)

After you spend some time exploring and have stocked up on some souvenirs, you will probably want to go and get something to eat. Although there is a wide selection of great traditional and authentic food places along the main street, for a more unique dining experience we recommend heading to cafe Sepia.

Even just the outside of this cafe is a sight to behold and so different from anything else in the area. With colorful posters and adorable toys covering the windows, it looks like a cafe which has been around since the Showa era. 

There is also a display stand outside which has realistic replicas of the food and drinks available. The most popular items on the menu include the original cream sodas, the purin and the Japanese-style pancakes. Sepia also serves Blue Seal ice cream, a specialty ice cream brand originating from America and prevalent in Okinawa.

As soon as you step inside, you will feel like you have entered a Shōjo comic. Endless amounts of toys and vintage comic stripes cover the walls whilst the bright orange table covers and furniture help to further enhance the 60s vibe of the place. The place is truly nostalgic and has a comforting atmosphere as if it was a family home.

This cafe only has around fifteen seats which makes it feel more cosy but does mean that it can get pretty busy especially around lunchtime. Sepia truly is a retro food paradise offering an extensive range of old-fashioned dishes and drinks. 

As mentioned, one of the most popular things on the menu is the cream soda. Yet, it isn’t just the classic Melon cream soda which is on offer, this cafe actually has more than ten different types of cream sodas including strawberry, grape and peach. Each soda is so vibrant in colour, lovingly made, and served with Blue Seal ice cream on top.

Ordering something from the set menu is the best option, since you can get a main dish, side salad and a drink for just ¥1400. If you want to upgrade and get one of the cream sodas instead or a regular drink, this costs ¥1530. 

There are three main dishes to choose from including spaghetti Napolitan, omurice and pilaf rice. Each dish comes served on a silver tray and with an adorable octopus sausage on top making it feel as though it’s homemade. 

If none of these take your fancy, you can always opt for the Okinawa soba. Unfortunately, this isn’t part of the set menu but it is definitely worth the price!

Key Information

Transportation:

  • From Shinjuku, take the Shinjuku Line to Bakuroyokoyama Station 
  • Then head to Higashi-Nihombashi Station and take the Asakusa Line to Keisei Takasago Station. Finally, take the Keisei-Kanamachi Line to Shibamata Station.
  • This trip takes 48 minutes and costs ¥470

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